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The Lycian Triangle

 

  This visit is highly recommended to anyone visiting the area, and also to yachtsmen anchoring at Kalkan for a few hours, since Kalkan is within easy reach of the Lycian capital Xanthus, its major port Patara and its religious center Letoon. There is a good road to all three sites and the visits are "easy" compared to some of the mountain sites such as Pinara.

photoWhen you reach the second junction after Kalkan (Akbel), where a nearby village has been relocated in new houses following a landslide, look back at the wonderful view of Kalkan harbor. Descending through a pine forest you will pass through Yeşilköy, a large non-touristic farming community. Turn left at the yellow Patara road sign (12 kilometers from Kalkan), and pass through the village of Gelemiş recently transformed into a "pensions" village owing to the popularity of the beach 2-3 kilometers away. At the edge of the village you will start noticing the remains of the ancient city of Patara which was one of the six most important Lycian cities of the confederation. The marshy "lake" area to your right is where the inner port used to be. Across the marsh, granaries built by the Emperor Hadrian and a temple can be seen, but they are difficult to reach. The really spectacular triumphal arch erected in 100 AD. When Mettius Modestus was Roman governor of Lycia as part of the city’s water system.

The Augusts 1990 findings of the Turkish archeological team can be seen near the arch in the city’s necropolis. The first group of ruins to the right under the large palm trees, is the Roman baths, the second group on the same right-hand side of the road is the Byzantine basilica. The third group, also on the right, is the baths of Vespian. The theater, built facing the arch on the slopes of a hillside, is partially buried in the sand. The acropolis and a large cistern are to be found at the top of the same hill and it is worth climbing to the summit for the magnificent view it affords of Patara Beach, one of the most remarkable beaches in Southern Turkey.

photoLeave your vehicle at the car park near the restaurant area and walk about one kilometer, through very hot sand, to the sea. Umbrellas, beach mats and refreshments are available on the beach. On your way back you may want to eat in one of the two restaurants. The beach stretches for about twenty kilometers to the West, backed up by dense scrub and eucalyptus forest.

You will rejoin the main road where you left it and turning left proceed to Xanthus, which is situated on the hill overlooking the village of Kınık (22 km. from Kalkan). Look for the yellow historical road sign and turn right almost opposite the large mosque. Climbing up the hill you will see the small triumphal arch built honoring the Emperor Vespian. Xanthus was the capital of Lycian Federation and its largest city.

On the right can be seen the site of the Nereid Monument which was taken to England by Charles Fellows in 1838 and is now exhibited in the British Museum along with other artifacts from Xanthus. The Roman theater is on the left and is believed to have also served as an arena in its time. To the South of the theater is the Lycian acropolis an the Temple of Artemis; to the North the agora and the Inscribed Pillar. Two monumental Lycian tombs, one of them known as the Harp Tomb, overlook the theater. The view of the valley and the river from the acropolis is not to be missed. Parking your car in the shady parking area opposite the theater, walk to the Byzantine basilica then turn North along the city walls to visit the Lion Tomb, the site of the sarcophagus of Payava and the Roman acropolis. The site is not well marked so it is advisable to seek the services of a guide (found in the vicinity of the parking area) but do not expect the guide to speak more than a few words of English or any other foreign language.

Leaving Xanthus, rejoin the main road traveling in the direction of Fethiye and cross the Eşen river (Xanthus) bridge. You may want to stop for a dip in the river! Look for the yellow sign indicating the way to Letoon (on the left hand side of the road about one kilometer from the bridge). Four kilometers of good road will lead you to the site dominated by the Hellenistic theater. Entering the site from the car park, make your way to the ruins of the three temples: the Temple of Leto (the largest), an the Temples of Artemis and Apollo. The Nymphaeum and the remains of a church are to the South. Hellenistic and Roman porticoes lie to the North. The Nympaeum and the porticoes are perpetually flooded and are a breeding stop for frogs and turtles which are attraction, especially for the young. The dragonflies seen darting around on a hot summer’s day add another touch of brilliance. Visit the theater, where a tomato festival is held annually, and look for the frieze of masks on the outer face of the passage on the northeast side. There is a simple café under the trees where afternoon tea may be enjoyed before returning to Kalkan (30 km.).

Allow at least two hours for your visit to Xanthus and the same for Patara but Letoon can be toured within an hour and the return trip to Kalkan will take about half an hour.

 

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Yaliboyu Mah.  Kalkan  07960, Kalkan/Antalya, Turkey
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